Ask PM | 如何将旧皮鞋护理的焕然一新?

2020年07月17日 阅读 34576
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在上星期六,我们在淘宝店铺做了一个教您做皮鞋的基础保养及如何擦出镜面效果的直播。错过的朋友,可以阅读这条推送。

皮鞋,可以说是最能展现一个男人内在的细节,不在于他的选择是否昂贵,而是看他如何养护它们。定期给自己的皮鞋做次护理,不仅能延长它的寿命,还能让它焕发出新的光彩。
A man's shoes say a lot about him, however it isn't the value of the shoes that matters but how he takes care of them. Taking proper care of your shoes can not only extend their life but make them look better over time.

01 准备工具。

首先需要准备一块布、一点温水(也有人用威士忌)、一把牙刷、一把马鬃毛刷、一罐鞋乳和鞋蜡,当然还有一双你的皮鞋。
For a shoe shine, you need a piece of cloth, a bowl of warm water (some people use whisky), a toothbrush, a fine horsehair brush, shoe cream, shoe wax, and of course, your shoes.

02 清洁你的皮鞋。

用马鬃毛刷,刷去皮鞋上灰尘。
Brush dust and dirt away with horse hair and tooth brush.

再用牙刷,从根部开始,沿着一个方向刷去鞋檐缝隙中的污垢。
Use the tooth brush to clean up the sole edge and welt of your shoe. Stroke in one direction, from the heel up to the toe, to clean out dust and dirt.

用牙刷刷一点点鞋蜡或鞋乳在鞋头处,可以帮助阻止地上的积水渗入。
You can also apply a little bit of wax or cream in the welt of your shoe for water resistance.

如果鞋子之前上了蜡,需要再用马鬃毛刷刷下边缘,将过多的蜡刷掉。
If your shoes has got waxed before, you need to brush the extra wax off.

如果鞋子较脏的话:按照下图所示将布套在手上,尽量套紧一些,让布的表面褶皱少一些,之后根据污渍大小挤出皮鞋护理霜/万能皮革保养乳适量擦拭,静置至少15分钟后再用刷子刷一遍即可。
Optional for really dirty shoes: Wrap a piece of cloth around your fingers as tight as possible to avoid creases and apply a dab of leather balm on your cloth and start massaging it on your shoe. This will help clean your shoes and moisturize them. Let the cream dry at least 15 minutes then brush again using the horse hair brush.

护理霜我们使用的是法国品牌Saphir
Creme Universelle 万能皮革保养乳▽

03 打开鞋乳,蘸取适量。

使用鞋乳养护过的鞋子看起俩更有质感,并可以延长寿命。
Cream will help moisten your shoe leather, helping it look new and last longer. Dab your cloth into the cream using just a small amount at a time.

如果你不确定你的鞋乳颜色是否适合你的鞋子可以先从内侧根部开始,涂抹少量静置后观察颜色。没有问题的话,可以将鞋乳涂抹整个皮鞋,并在有褶皱的地方着重按摩。
You should test the color of the shoe cream out on your shoe first to see if they match. It's best to test it out on the inner back heel of the shoe. Rub a little on and wait a few seconds to see if it is the right color. If you find the color matches, then you can start applying cream over the whole shoe with a soft massaging circular motion.

静置至少10分钟或更久后,再用马鬃毛刷一下。之后,一次普通的护理到这步就可以结束了。
After applying cream let it dry for at least 10 minutes before brushing again with horse hair brush. You are finished if you just want to clean and care for the leather.

镜面抛光 MIRROR SHINE

镜面抛光可以让你的鞋子看起来更加闪耀,可以满足需要在正式场合着装打扮的最高要求。如果想要接着进行更深入的镜面抛光,可以继续遵循以下步骤:
If you want to do a mirror shine, please continue to follow these steps below:

04 打蜡。

蘸取一些蜡,在鞋头轻轻打圈擦拭,力度要比在脸上涂抹面霜还轻。
Dab or rub your cloth in some wax. Start rubbing it gently on the toe of your shoe. Use the amount of pressure you would use to rub lotion on your face, perhaps even lighter.

05 镜面抛光。

用手蘸取一点水,点一滴在鞋头处,再进行打圈擦拭。
Dub some water use your finger. Drop it on the toe and rub it with the wax

根部也不要忽略,手法同上。
Same way on the back of the shoe.

抛光时不要着急,打磨一会鞋头,再打磨一会鞋跟,重复几个来回后,效果会慢慢显现出来。但切记——鞋蜡只能用在鞋头和鞋跟,不要涂在行走造成的褶皱处,否则会对鞋子造成损伤。
Repeat the above steps spending a few minutes on the toe, then the heel, then back to the toe and so on. But please note - only wax the toe and heel and avoid applying wax where the top of the shoe bends when you walk. Applying wax on the area of the shoe that creases will cause unsightly cracking of the wax and may damage the shoe.

如果这是你第一次细心保养你的皮鞋,可能需要花上个30分钟时间,并且重复沾取鞋乳和温水,打圈擦拭多次,才能出现镜面抛光的效果,但是一旦成功一次,再次打磨就会容易很多。
If it is your first mirror shine, it may take up to 30 minutes to get a mirror shine on the toe and heel. Remember the mirror shine is repetitive work and takes some patience, but the end result is worth it. But the second time you do a mirror shine, it is going to be a lot easier.